What actually works when it comes to anti-aging skincare, and what is simply expensive marketing in a very attractive bottle?

In this episode of The Hormone Solution Podcast, Karen Martel sits down with Amitay Eshel, co-founder and CEO of Young Goose and host of the Biohacking Beauty Podcast, to separate skincare science from skincare hype.

Amitay explains why effective anti-aging skincare is about much more than moisturizing the surface of the skin. Healthy, resilient skin depends on cellular energy, mitochondrial function, ingredient stability, internal hydration, damage repair and the skin’s ability to respond to stress.

We also explore how common skincare ingredients such as vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, retinol, NAD, NMN, collagen and spermidine actually work, along with why stronger treatments are not always better.

If your bathroom cabinet is overflowing with products but your skin is still dry, dull, irritated or changing rapidly during menopause, this conversation will help you understand what your skin may actually need.

In the full conversation, Amitay explains how to build a smarter, more sustainable skincare routine and why protecting the skin’s natural repair processes may be more effective than constantly attacking it with aggressive treatments.

In This Episode, You’ll Learn

• How vitamin C and hyaluronic acid influence skin rejuvenation
• Why the stability of vitamin C matters as much as the ingredient itself
• Why topical skincare cannot fully compensate for poor internal hydration
• How mitochondrial health affects skin quality and muscle strength
• How cellular energy influences the skin’s ability to repair damage
• Why stronger concentrations of retinol are not always more effective
• How skincare ingredients can degrade before they ever reach your skin
• Why encapsulation is used to protect sensitive ingredients such as NMN
• How collagen and NAD work differently when ingested versus applied topically
• Why spermidine is being studied and used in advanced skincare formulas
• How menopause affects collagen, hydration, pigmentation and skin resilience
• Why personalized skincare is more effective than following a generic routine
• When laser resurfacing may be helpful
• Why frequent aggressive treatments may damage the skin barrier
• How targeted skincare may improve wrinkles, pigmentation and visible aging

The Truth About Vitamin C in Skincare

Vitamin C is one of the most popular ingredients in anti-aging skincare, but not all vitamin C products work the same way.

Vitamin C can support collagen production, antioxidant protection and a more even skin tone. However, it is also an unstable ingredient that may lose effectiveness when exposed to air, heat or light.

Amitay explains why the form of vitamin C used in a product matters and why a highly concentrated serum is not necessarily better if the ingredient has already oxidized or degraded.

The effectiveness of a skincare product depends on more than the ingredient list. Formulation, packaging, delivery method and stability all influence whether an active ingredient can still do its job by the time it reaches your skin.

Does Hyaluronic Acid Really Hydrate the Skin?

Hyaluronic acid is commonly promoted as a powerful hydrating ingredient because it can attract and hold water near the surface of the skin.

However, topical hyaluronic acid is not a replacement for adequate hydration inside the body.

True skin hydration is influenced by fluid intake, electrolyte balance, hormones, the skin barrier and the body’s ability to retain moisture. A topical product may temporarily improve the appearance and feel of the skin, but it cannot fully correct dehydration originating inside the body.

This becomes especially important during perimenopause and menopause, when declining estrogen can affect moisture retention, collagen production and skin thickness.

Why Mitochondrial Health Matters for Aging Skin

Mitochondria are responsible for producing energy inside the cells. As mitochondrial function declines, the skin may become less capable of repairing damage, producing collagen and responding to environmental stress.

This is one reason Amitay believes that anti-aging skincare must go beyond exfoliation and surface hydration.

The skin requires energy to regenerate. Supporting mitochondrial health may help improve cellular resilience, recovery and the body’s response to damage signals.

During the episode, Amitay also discusses Mitopure and research suggesting that improving mitochondrial health may support muscle strength even without major changes to diet or exercise.

Is More Retinol Better?

Retinol is one of the most extensively studied ingredients for improving visible signs of aging. It may support cellular turnover, collagen production, skin texture and pigmentation.

But stronger does not always mean better.

High concentrations of retinol can cause irritation, dryness, inflammation and damage to the skin barrier. When the skin becomes chronically irritated, it may become less resilient and more sensitive over time.

Amitay explains why lower concentrations used consistently may be more sustainable than repeatedly overwhelming the skin with potent formulas.

The goal is not to punish the skin into looking younger. The goal is to encourage repair while preserving the skin barrier.

NAD, NMN and Collagen for Skin Health

NAD is involved in cellular energy production and repair. Levels may decline with age, which has made NAD and its precursors popular within the longevity and biohacking industries.

However, the way an ingredient works inside the body may be very different from the way it works when applied to the skin.

The same is true for collagen. Ingested collagen peptides are broken down during digestion and may provide amino acids that support the body’s collagen production. Topical collagen generally works more as a moisturizing or film-forming ingredient because collagen molecules are typically too large to penetrate deeply into the skin.

Amitay also explains how encapsulation technology may protect sensitive ingredients such as NMN from degradation and help deliver them more effectively.

How Menopause Changes the Skin

Menopause can affect nearly every aspect of skin health.

As estrogen declines, women may experience:

• Increased dryness
• Reduced collagen production
• Thinner skin
• Greater sensitivity
• Slower healing
• Changes in pigmentation
• Loss of elasticity
• More visible lines and wrinkles

These changes are not simply cosmetic. Hormones influence the skin’s structure, hydration, circulation and ability to repair itself.

This is why the skincare routine that worked in your thirties may suddenly stop working during perimenopause or menopause.

Amitay and Karen discuss why women in midlife often need a more personalized approach that considers hormones, internal health, cellular function and the strength of the skin barrier.

Should You Use Lasers and Aggressive Skin Treatments?

Laser resurfacing and other professional treatments can improve pigmentation, texture and wrinkles by creating controlled damage that stimulates repair.

However, constantly damaging the skin is not always the best long-term strategy.

Amitay explains why occasional laser resurfacing may be beneficial while frequent aggressive treatments, harsh peels or excessive exfoliation may impair the skin barrier and create ongoing inflammation.

The skin needs time and resources to respond to damage. If repair signals are constantly triggered without adequate recovery, the results may eventually become less impressive and the skin may become more reactive.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best skincare ingredient for anti-aging?

There is no single best ingredient for every person. Retinoids, vitamin C, peptides, antioxidants and barrier-supporting ingredients may all be helpful. The best choice depends on your skin type, sensitivity, age, hormone status and primary concerns.

Does hyaluronic acid permanently hydrate the skin?

Hyaluronic acid can temporarily improve surface hydration by attracting water, but it does not permanently correct dehydration. Long-term skin hydration also depends on internal fluid balance, hormones, the skin barrier and overall health.

Is a higher percentage of retinol more effective?

Not always. Higher concentrations may cause more irritation without producing significantly better long-term results. A lower concentration used consistently may be more sustainable and better tolerated.

Can menopause cause sudden skin aging?

Yes. Declining estrogen can contribute to reduced collagen, dryness, thinner skin, slower healing and changes in elasticity. These changes may become noticeable during perimenopause and accelerate after menopause.

Do collagen creams rebuild collagen in the skin?

Topical collagen generally does not penetrate deeply enough to replace lost collagen. It may improve surface moisture and temporarily make the skin appear smoother. Ingredients that support the skin’s own collagen production may have a greater effect on long-term skin structure.

Final Thoughts

Effective anti-aging skincare is not about finding the strongest serum, using the most expensive cream or constantly damaging the skin in the name of renewal.

It is about supporting the skin’s ability to produce energy, protect itself and repair damage.

In this episode, Amitay Eshel shares a more intelligent approach to skincare that considers ingredient stability, mitochondrial health, hormone changes, internal hydration and the importance of treating the skin as a living organ rather than a surface that needs to be scrubbed, peeled and bullied into submission.

Listen to the full episode to learn how to create a skincare routine that supports healthier, stronger and more resilient skin as you age.

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About The Hormone Solution Podcast

The Hormone Solution Podcast with Karen Martel helps women understand the hormonal changes that occur during perimenopause and menopause. Each episode explores practical strategies for hormone health, weight loss, energy, sleep, longevity and thriving through midlife.

Download on iTunes or on your favorite podcast platform.